I happened upon this incredible ring, attributed a German wedding ring from 1600-1650, on the Victoria & Albert Museum’s online archives. Two hands grasp an enameled diamond-set heart when the ring is worn, but when the ring is free from the finger, you can see it is actually comprised of three separate rings that rotate open to reveal secret engraving. On the insides of the shank, a portion of the marriage vows reads in German: “My beginning and my end” and “What God has joined together let no man put asunder”. Beyond the ring’s aesthetic value, this masterpiece is a historically-loaded combination of three styles of old rings: posy, gimmel, and fede rings.

A simple gold band with a small poem or verse engraved on the inside and/or outside is called a posy ring. Originally, in the Middle Ages, these rings were called resons; after 1430, they were referred to as posies– ‘poesy’ meaning ‘poetry’. Posy rings are believed to have been exchanged as love tokens more often than betrothel or wedding rings. The engravings were usually in French during the 13^th and 14^th Centuries, which was internationally regarded as “the language of love”. From the 15^th Century on, English script was more common. The style of the lettering is also indicative of age: the first posies were written in Lombardic script (rounded manuscript-style) with a change to Blackletter (gothic script) in the 15^th century.

English posy ring, 1295-1304, engraving in Lombardic script*

English posy ring, 1500-1600, "I AM YOURS KS"*

English posy ring, 1500-1530, Blackletter engraving*

A gimmel ring consists of two or three interlinked bands that are worn like one ring. The word “gimmel” comes from gemmellus, Latin for “the twins”. Historically, it is said that two interlocked bands represented man and woman; if there were three bands in the ring, they symbolized man, woman, and God or witness. Gimmel rings were created as far back as the 13^th Century and were exchanged as symbols of friendship, love, or marriage. In their simplest form, two plain metal bands are linked. In the 15^th century, gimmel rings became more popular and more elaborate, often incorporating sculptural components.

Gimmel ring, late 16th Century, Latin inscription reads "remember the past and that there is a future"**

A fede ring depicts a right hand-shake. Ancient Roman versions were called dextrarum iunctio (“giving, joining of right hands”) and represented the political agreement between families that takes place when a man and woman were betrothed. The hands-clasped motif reappeared in the Middle Ages– as early as the 12^th Century– and was reinterpreted into the Victorian age. The hands are sometimes sculpted into one band, with the handshake either featured on top of the finger or worn on the underside of a gemstone ring. The motif was alternatively incorporated by attaching different components atop separate bands of a gimmel ring that form a handshake when put together. In the 19^th Century, these rings were referred to as fede rings– the name comes from the Italian phrase manos in fede which means “hands-clasped in faith”.

Fede ring, 16th Century**

Irish fede ring, 19th Century, hands-clasped detail on underside of ring**

The awesome artistry in the German Renaissance ring inspired us to create our own reinvented posy-gimmel-fede ring. On the finger, it appears a modest gold ring modeled into a hand resting atop the finger. When you take the ring off and separate the bands, a female hand holding a garnet heart is revealed. The flat interiors of each band are intended for an engraved phrase, viewable only by the wearer.

Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle Garnet Heart Fede Gimmel Ring 18k, 093274R  $1400

*Victoria & Albert Museum online database: www.vam.ac.uk

**Rings: Symbols of Wealth, Power and Affection, Diana Scarisbrick, Abrams 1993.

Tags: garnet, Heirloom, modern jewelry, revival, Ring, Rings, victorian.

October is Halloween’s month – a time when all things scary, dark and a little bit weird are allowed to come out and play.

Victorian-era jewelry is fashioned from some uncommon design materials – hair, black enamel, coral and seed pearls – and utilizes  themes and motifs such as animals, flora and memory to a fetching end.

Whether it be coral grape cluster earrings, a black enameled locket or a ruby-set snake ring – draping yourself in Victorian jewelry is so much better than wearing a Halloween costume.

Here are a few dark beauties that have me under a spell:

This Knights of Pythias Fob on a Hair Chain ($350) is indeed made from real hair.  Weaving hair jewelry became a popular drawing room pastime during the Victorian era.  As photographs weren’t common, or cheap, at the time, wearing someone’s hair on your person became a tangible substitute.

Knights of Pythias Hair Necklace

Made from calcareous skeltons of marine animals, otherwise known as coral, these  Coral Grape Cluster Earrings ($1500) are a great example of the popularity of coral jewelry during the Victorian era. Victorians loved coral, both because it was believed to posses the power to ward off evil and danger, and for its ease to work with – it also fills the perfect niche for designs calling for accents of leaves and flowers.

Coral Grape Cluster Earrings

It’s crazy that not even the delicate seed pearls of this Victorian Pearl and Enamel Locket ($1200) are its most beautiful design feature. The face is also decorated with fine lines of black enamel and a raised floral pattern that gives it a feeling both goth and romantic.

Victorian Pearl and Enamel Locket

After being a hit at the Crystal Palace Exhibition in London in 1851, enameling was revivied in many forms during the 19th century. A fine example is this Black Trace Enamel Gold Bangle Bracelet ($985). For me, the design conjures aspects  of embellished 19th century architecture.

Black Trace Enamel Gold Bangle Bracelet

I will not repeat that snake line from Indiana Jones when describing snake jewelry ever, ever again. That said, I love snakes, as did the Victorians. While some may view them as slithery, and slightly creepy, I say yes, they are, and that is just their allure. This Ruby Set Snake Ring ($850) has slithered its way into my heart, and perhaps onto my hand?

Ruby Set Snake Ring

Tags: coral earrings, hair jewelry, Locket, snake ring, victorian.

There’s always tons of excitement in July – the long weekend of the 4th, music festivals, outdoor activities, beach excursions and long summer nights.

So, in the jewelry world, it’s only fitting that the stone of the month is the fiery ruby.

Among natural gems, only diamond is harder, one reason for the ruby’s popularity in a variety of jewelry styles.

In Victorian jewelry, rubies were set in the heads of snake rings; in Art Nouveau pieces, which are often nature-inspired, they were set to resemble the petals of flowers; and you’ll see rubies often in Retro jewelry, boldly set in yellow or rose gold

Below, a look back in time to where  (and how!) the ruby was worn:

Victorian Era

It’s widely circulated that Queen Victoria’s wedding band was a snake biting its own tail. Whether or not this factoid is true, we  may never know, but what I do know for sure is that there are tons of snake rings to be found (in a variety of styles) from the Victorian era.

They are often set with precious stones in their eyes or on top of their heads, and this particular one is set with a ruby, as well as a diamond and a sapphire.

Ruby, Diamond and Sapphire Snake Ring

There was a period of time during the Victorian era when jewelers were fixated on the design techniques of the Etruscans (ancient Romans). This 18k yellow gold necklace showcases both this design inspiration and beautiful old cut bezel set rubies.

Etruscan Revival Emerald & Ruby Necklace

Art Nouveau Era

Art Nouveau jewels are rife with organic shapes and motifs. A bright ruby (the color of flowers, fruits and other natural delicacies), only enhances this naturalistic beauty,  as seen with these two curvaceous Art Nouveau pieces.

Art Nouveau Enameled Lady Festoon Ruby & Diamond Necklace

Ruby & Diamond Art Nouveau Necklace

Retro Era

Due to the dearth of platinum and other jewelry materials during the Retro era (which spans World War II, from 1940 to 1950), jewelers used alternative metals  such as yellow and rose gold, and alternative stones such as citrines,  amethysts and, of course, rubies.

Their lack was our gain, because ruby jewelry from this era is always some of the boldest.

Retro Ruby Wire Frame Earrings

Diamond and Ruby Retro Flower Ring

Contemporary

With the Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle line, we take inspiration from the motifs and designs of some of our most favorite antique pieces and fashion them anew. A great example are these serpent earrings, accented with ruby drops.

Ruby Drop Serpent Earrings

With all these great examples, it should be easy (or very, very hard if you are indecisive like me!) to add a ruby jewel to your collection.

Tags: Art Nouveau, Earrings, Heirloom, Necklaces, Retro, Rings, Ruby, Snake, victorian.

In the United States, circa 2009, a circular metallic object at the base of the fourth finger of the left hand generally connotates conjugality. The modern tradition goes thus: Man gives woman diamond ring as indication of marriage proposal; woman accepts; said ring is placed on the fourth finger of her left hand; man and woman don bands upon formal wedding never to be removed for all time. However, today’s “tradition” is actually a fairly recent manifestation. The deeper history of marital rings is not so conventional and, rather, defined by the individual whims of the wearer…

A ring, being circular with no beginning or end, is an age-old symbol for eternity (a likely suspect for expressing lifelong commitment!). Very early rings were actually made from non-metallic materials—the ancient Egyptians made them out of twisted and knotted papyrus. The ring finger was designated by the Ancient Romans, who believed a large vein (vena amoris or “vein of love”) flowed directly from the fourth finger to the heart. The Romans fashioned wedding rings out of iron, a practical and symbolic material utilized for its incredible strength. As of the 2^nd Century A.D., the Romans were making engagement rings out of gold.

Ancient Roman gold Hercules Knot ring*

During the Middle Ages, gem-set engagement rings were only acquired by the very wealthy. At this time, diamonds were extremely rare and costly. A diamond’s unique properties were acknowledged very early on in history and the rarity only added to the allure. However, before the development of more advanced faceting tools, they were prized for their strength and magic rather than their beauty. The first known diamond engagement ring is attributed to the betrothel of the Archduke Maximillian of Austria, given to Mary of Burgundy in 1477.

Cabachon sapphire ring, 1300-1400**

Early diamond point cut ring, mid 1500s**

Throughout history, rings were commonly exchanged for reasons other than marriage, such as friendship or love. The convention of wearing the engagement and wedding ring on the finger it was originally placed is of recent origins. Married ladies used to wear their wedding rings on various fingers. It was even fashionable during the reign of King George I (1714-1727) for women to wear their wedding ring on their thumb!

Gold band, 1550-1600**

Ruby and diamond flowerhead ring, 1830**

Prior to the discovery of the large diamond mines in the 18th and 19th centuries, non-diamond engagement rings were very popular: a young lady might receive an impressive sapphire or ruby as her engagement gift from her new fiancé. After the discovery of diamonds in Africa in 1867, the increased availability of diamonds yielded more engagement rings featuring diamonds. In 1938, DeBeers launched a huge ad campaign establishing the diamond as the only choice for an engagement ring. Non-diamond stones were still rather common up until this campaign and its effects are still seen today.  

At Doyle & Doyle, we see couples who do all sorts of things when it comes to the selection and wearing of marital jewelry. By doing something untraditional by today’s standards, you might actually be referencing a custom with roots much deeper than our current fashion. So if you really want to be historically accurate, reference our ancestors and pick something you love and wear it however you like!

*image from A History of Jewelry, J. Anderson Black

**images from Victoria & Albert Museum online database: http://www.vam.ac.uk/

Tags: Rings.