I happened upon this incredible ring, attributed a German wedding ring from 1600-1650, on the Victoria & Albert Museum’s online archives. Two hands grasp an enameled diamond-set heart when the ring is worn, but when the ring is free from the finger, you can see it is actually comprised of three separate rings that rotate open to reveal secret engraving. On the insides of the shank, a portion of the marriage vows reads in German: “My beginning and my end” and “What God has joined together let no man put asunder”. Beyond the ring’s aesthetic value, this masterpiece is a historically-loaded combination of three styles of old rings: posy, gimmel, and fede rings.

A simple gold band with a small poem or verse engraved on the inside and/or outside is called a posy ring. Originally, in the Middle Ages, these rings were called resons; after 1430, they were referred to as posies– ‘poesy’ meaning ‘poetry’. Posy rings are believed to have been exchanged as love tokens more often than betrothel or wedding rings. The engravings were usually in French during the 13^th and 14^th Centuries, which was internationally regarded as “the language of love”. From the 15^th Century on, English script was more common. The style of the lettering is also indicative of age: the first posies were written in Lombardic script (rounded manuscript-style) with a change to Blackletter (gothic script) in the 15^th century.

English posy ring, 1295-1304, engraving in Lombardic script*

English posy ring, 1500-1600, "I AM YOURS KS"*

English posy ring, 1500-1530, Blackletter engraving*

A gimmel ring consists of two or three interlinked bands that are worn like one ring. The word “gimmel” comes from gemmellus, Latin for “the twins”. Historically, it is said that two interlocked bands represented man and woman; if there were three bands in the ring, they symbolized man, woman, and God or witness. Gimmel rings were created as far back as the 13^th Century and were exchanged as symbols of friendship, love, or marriage. In their simplest form, two plain metal bands are linked. In the 15^th century, gimmel rings became more popular and more elaborate, often incorporating sculptural components.

Gimmel ring, late 16th Century, Latin inscription reads "remember the past and that there is a future"**

A fede ring depicts a right hand-shake. Ancient Roman versions were called dextrarum iunctio (“giving, joining of right hands”) and represented the political agreement between families that takes place when a man and woman were betrothed. The hands-clasped motif reappeared in the Middle Ages– as early as the 12^th Century– and was reinterpreted into the Victorian age. The hands are sometimes sculpted into one band, with the handshake either featured on top of the finger or worn on the underside of a gemstone ring. The motif was alternatively incorporated by attaching different components atop separate bands of a gimmel ring that form a handshake when put together. In the 19^th Century, these rings were referred to as fede rings– the name comes from the Italian phrase manos in fede which means “hands-clasped in faith”.

Fede ring, 16th Century**

Irish fede ring, 19th Century, hands-clasped detail on underside of ring**

The awesome artistry in the German Renaissance ring inspired us to create our own reinvented posy-gimmel-fede ring. On the finger, it appears a modest gold ring modeled into a hand resting atop the finger. When you take the ring off and separate the bands, a female hand holding a garnet heart is revealed. The flat interiors of each band are intended for an engraved phrase, viewable only by the wearer.

Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle Garnet Heart Fede Gimmel Ring 18k, 093274R  $1400

*Victoria & Albert Museum online database: www.vam.ac.uk

**Rings: Symbols of Wealth, Power and Affection, Diana Scarisbrick, Abrams 1993.

Under $500

Dads really love crazy gifts. Because then they can wear them to work and be all like ‘Look at this crazy tie! My daughter loves me so much!. He’ll totally be showing off these Monkey and Banana Cufflinks to anyone at work who will listen:

Monkey and Banana Cufflinks, $350

Under $1000

Owls are wise, just like dear old dad. If he is an avid bird watcher, or just plain cool, he will flip over this Diamond Owl Ring, we certainly have:

Diamond Owl Ring, $885

Must Have

Whether your man was a history major in college, is a hardcore Lord of the Rings reader or a hipster who likes his figural jewelry, they’ll all find common ground wearing this Diamond Lion Ring:

Diamond Lion Ring, $2500

If you’re gonna get him cufflinks, why not get him the nicest ones you can find? These Diamond and Ruby Cufflinks are Art Deco and are perfect for all the galas you are planning to attend. Or are at least the best accessory ever for a New Year’s Eve party:

Ruby and Diamond Cufflinks, $1400

]]> http://www.doyledoyle.com/stylegem/?feed=rss2&p=579 0 http://www.doyledoyle.com/stylegem/?p=504 http://www.doyledoyle.com/stylegem/?p=504#comments Wed, 09 Sep 2009 18:09:02 +0000 Lauren http://www.doyledoyle.com/stylegem/?p=504 September is a month of change – the weather becomes cooler, children go back to school and time seems to return to its speedy pace.

Changes abound at Doyle & Doyle in September. Besides the recent addition of tons of new pieces to our Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle line, including Acrostic charm bracelets and necklaces and Scroll Vine earrings and necklaces, we’ve also been busy searching out the best antique and estate pieces out there.

Although there is a lot to choose from, a few of the staff here at Doyle & Doyle have managed to pick out their favorites:

Jessica’s favorite new piece is the Miniature Portrait Pendant Locket (091836N):

“This exquisitely painted portrait set at an angle, the single bloom on the reverse and the swirling frame are quintessentially romantic.”

Says Joanna about her favorite, the Emerald Filigree Ring (090800R):

“This emerald looks like it holds an entire world. It’s not often you see emerald cabochons of this size and color in a ring; it’s really striking. Georgian jewelry is easily my favorite time period.”

Gemologist Laura can’t help but love jewelry centered upon beautiful precious or semi-precious stones, so it’s no wonder her current favorite is the Coral, Seed Pearl and Turquoise Necklace (091726N):

“As a young girl I often visited, and eventually worked, in my father’s  jewelry store.  Among the many unusual and unique  pieces of jewelry that he had in his store were the coral beads, which he imported from Italy.  My love affair with coral started then. I love the look and feel of coral beads. These tapered tear drops are gorgeous, especially how they are accented by the turquoise buttons and seed pearls, – I can’t think of a better combination to wear together.”

History buff Alison is a fan of the Lady’s Portrait Pin Pendant (091326P):

“I love how this charming portrait pin pendant combines the decorative and fine arts – the painting of the lady is so finely done! And the Gothic quatrefoil shape is a nice contrast to the feminine seed pearls. Pieces that have convertible fixtures give you so many options: you could wear it in your hair, or to fasten a sweater, or as a necklace on a chain.”