I happened upon this incredible ring, attributed a German wedding ring from 1600-1650, on the Victoria & Albert Museum’s online archives. Two hands grasp an enameled diamond-set heart when the ring is worn, but when the ring is free from the finger, you can see it is actually comprised of three separate rings that rotate open to reveal secret engraving. On the insides of the shank, a portion of the marriage vows reads in German: “My beginning and my end” and “What God has joined together let no man put asunder”. Beyond the ring’s aesthetic value, this masterpiece is a historically-loaded combination of three styles of old rings: posy, gimmel, and fede rings.

A simple gold band with a small poem or verse engraved on the inside and/or outside is called a posy ring. Originally, in the Middle Ages, these rings were called resons; after 1430, they were referred to as posies– ‘poesy’ meaning ‘poetry’. Posy rings are believed to have been exchanged as love tokens more often than betrothel or wedding rings. The engravings were usually in French during the 13^th and 14^th Centuries, which was internationally regarded as “the language of love”. From the 15^th Century on, English script was more common. The style of the lettering is also indicative of age: the first posies were written in Lombardic script (rounded manuscript-style) with a change to Blackletter (gothic script) in the 15^th century.

English posy ring, 1295-1304, engraving in Lombardic script*

English posy ring, 1500-1600, "I AM YOURS KS"*

English posy ring, 1500-1530, Blackletter engraving*

A gimmel ring consists of two or three interlinked bands that are worn like one ring. The word “gimmel” comes from gemmellus, Latin for “the twins”. Historically, it is said that two interlocked bands represented man and woman; if there were three bands in the ring, they symbolized man, woman, and God or witness. Gimmel rings were created as far back as the 13^th Century and were exchanged as symbols of friendship, love, or marriage. In their simplest form, two plain metal bands are linked. In the 15^th century, gimmel rings became more popular and more elaborate, often incorporating sculptural components.

Gimmel ring, late 16th Century, Latin inscription reads "remember the past and that there is a future"**

A fede ring depicts a right hand-shake. Ancient Roman versions were called dextrarum iunctio (“giving, joining of right hands”) and represented the political agreement between families that takes place when a man and woman were betrothed. The hands-clasped motif reappeared in the Middle Ages– as early as the 12^th Century– and was reinterpreted into the Victorian age. The hands are sometimes sculpted into one band, with the handshake either featured on top of the finger or worn on the underside of a gemstone ring. The motif was alternatively incorporated by attaching different components atop separate bands of a gimmel ring that form a handshake when put together. In the 19^th Century, these rings were referred to as fede rings– the name comes from the Italian phrase manos in fede which means “hands-clasped in faith”.

Fede ring, 16th Century**

Irish fede ring, 19th Century, hands-clasped detail on underside of ring**

The awesome artistry in the German Renaissance ring inspired us to create our own reinvented posy-gimmel-fede ring. On the finger, it appears a modest gold ring modeled into a hand resting atop the finger. When you take the ring off and separate the bands, a female hand holding a garnet heart is revealed. The flat interiors of each band are intended for an engraved phrase, viewable only by the wearer.

Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle Garnet Heart Fede Gimmel Ring 18k, 093274R  $1400

*Victoria & Albert Museum online database: www.vam.ac.uk

**Rings: Symbols of Wealth, Power and Affection, Diana Scarisbrick, Abrams 1993.

Here are a few pieces of antique and new jewelry that represent love’s many symbols:

Hearts, love’s most ubiquitous symbol, were popularized during the Victorian era. Check out our Victorian Malachite Heart Pin, $1200, Diamond Heart Locket, $150 and Diamond Heart and Bow Bracelet, $1800.

Malachite Heart Pin, $1200

Diamond Heart Locket, $150

Diamond Bow and Heart Bracelet, $1800

Lovebirds are a fitting image of love because they mate for life. Our Moonstone Lovebird Necklace, $295, from our Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle line is a sweet reminder of that.

Moonstone Lovebird Necklace, $295

Snakes may not seem like a symbol of love, but when a snake is biting its tail in a piece of jewelry, this symbolizes everlasting love. And who can forget the story that Queen Victoria’s wedding ring from Prince Albert was a snake biting its own tail. The story may not be true, but that doesn’t mean our Diamond Snake Ring, $950, isn’t a great gift for a loved one.

Diamond Snake Ring, $950

Bows in jewelry are symbols of fidelity and remembrance. These Grosgrain Bow Earrings, wg, $425, and this Grosgrain Bow Necklace, yg, $595 will stay on your mind long after they are given.

Grosgrain Bow Earrings, $425

Grosgrain Bow Necklace, $595

Flowers, given in real or jeweled form, are always a nice gesture. Especially when given in the form of this Orchid Link Bracelet, $275.

Orchid Link Bracelet, $275

With all the people to buy for it’s no wonder festive-ness can quickly turn to ‘what am I going to get them this year!’ panic.

Let me make it easy for you – for the next week, I’ll be posting some great antique and vintage jewelry gifts that I’ve hand-picked from the Doyle & Doyle collection. You’ll be able to find something for the people on your list – mom, dad, sister, your man, your woman, best friend – and in a range of prices – Under $500, Under $1000 and Must Haves.

Let the giving begin! But first, a few things I wouldn’t mind getting this holiday season:

Under $500

I love all of the figural stud earrings from the Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle line. Our Fleur de Lis Stud Earrings in yellow gold are already my everyday earring staple, so I think it’s time to switch it up.

I really like mixing metals, and the Swallow Stud Earrings in white gold are a customer favorite, as well as a personal favorite:

Swallow Stud Earrings, wg, $125

Under $1000

Although I’m a small girl, I love chunky jewelry, I also love black jewelry – it’s both gothic and romantic and I like the idea that you don’t just wear black clothing, but can incorporate it into your jewelry options, too.

This Black Enamel & Hematite Shield Locket incorporates all of those favorite things:

Black Enamel and Hematite Shield Locket, $985

Must Have

Sometimes, something comes your way that you just have to have, like a really good sandwich, a cup of coffee in the morning and, in this case, a really beautiful piece of jewelry. I’ve been drooling over this Sapphire Cabochon and Diamond Gypsy Set Ring since it found it’s way into Doyle & Doyle. It’s antique Victorian, and also my birthstone. It’s bold without being too large and the thick band makes it a bit more masculine feeling, which I especially like. Maybe it’s time to finally take the plunge?

Sapphire Cabochon and Diamond Gypsy Set Ring, $2950

]]> http://www.doyledoyle.com/stylegem/?feed=rss2&p=560 0 http://www.doyledoyle.com/stylegem/?p=541 http://www.doyledoyle.com/stylegem/?p=541#comments Wed, 04 Nov 2009 21:00:19 +0000 Lauren http://www.doyledoyle.com/stylegem/?p=541 November sets off the season of family gatherings, and life gets a bit more hectic.

Our friend and familial obligations bring us together -  in pairs, in trios and in large groups.

You should do the same with your jewelry.

A great pair of earrings that go perfectly with a statement ring makes getting dressed for events and gatherings much easier; having more than one piece that you are completely in love with doesn’t hurt either.

And, like in life, your jewelry suite doesn’t have to be matchy matchy to work. Sometimes the most unlikely pairings are also the best.

Below, some of my favorite combinations of current Doyle & Doyle antique and vintage jewels, and some things to think about when picking out your duo:

Tip #1 – Take the High (End) Road.

I picked this pairing because what goes better with diamonds then, well, other diamonds? The Opal and Diamond Ring may be fashioned in yellow gold, and the Deco Diamond Drop Earrings in platinum, but their glamour is their commonality.

Opal and Diamond Ring

Deco Diamond Drop Earrings

Tip #2 – Be Prepared for the Unexpected.

Like seeing a so-so dress on a rack that looks amazing on, you never know when two pieces will just go together and look great, despite evidence to the contrary.

Take the Georgian Foil Back Garnet Pendant that I’ve paired with these Diamond Cluster Drop Earrings – their physical shape is similar (round and oval), and they are both yellow gold, but the visual similarities stop there.

But there’s no denying it – something about them together just WORKS.

Georgian Foil Back Garnet Pendant

Diamond Cluster Drop Earrings

Tip #3 – It’s in the Details…

Rather than finding matching colors for your two pieces, why not concentrate on their smaller, style details?

This Victorian Turquoise Bangle has a rope pattern that surrounds a line of turquoise stones. As soon as I saw this beautiful bracelet, I was reminded of our Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle Diamond Knot Earrings.  Finding similarities such as this make make your jewelry pairing more subtle than bold.

Victorian Turquoise and Rose Cut Diamond Bangle

Diamond Knot Earrings - Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle

This poster by Alberto Vargas illustrates the fair goddess quite well:

This vintage locket ring – engraved with the name Diana – is just like that: a strong exterior, but with a tender edge.

'Diana' Locket Ring

The shape of the ring itself is quite masculine, but the curly script of the ‘Diana’ and the swirly embellishments are all feminine.

Now my name isn’t Diana, but that wouldn’t stop me from wearing this ring. I like pieces in their ‘original’ state – lockets with the engraving (or even photo!) of the original owner. To me, it’s the small details like that that make antique and vintage jewelry really sentimental and special.

August is filled with golden beaches, golden tans and bodies bedecked in gold bangles and necklaces.

Maybe that’s all just wishful thinking, or possibly too much sun, but one can’t deny that from Columbus’ voyage to the Americas, to the California gold rush, gold has always been a prize to possess.

Gold is the most malleable of all metals, explaining its widespread use in jewelry.

We know gold best in its yellow form, but other colors can be produced by adding other metal alloys – copper for pink gold, silver for green gold and zinc, silver or palladium for white gold.

The higher the karat (or percentage of pure gold) that is present in a piece, the more yellow it will be.  For me, when you really like a piece, karat is more a matter of taste  – many jewelers of the Victorian era preferred 10k gold and a recent trend in pieces made in the Roman and Byzantine style is that they are fashioned in bright yellow 22k gold to emphasize their exoticism.

Of course at Doyle & Doyle, we are surrounded by many representations of gold, in forms like embossed chain link bracelets, gold beaded necklaces and colored-gold rings in pink and green.

With all this variety, you’d think it difficult to find a favorite, a ‘gold standard’ of a piece if you will, but I’ve managed to pick out a few, with emphasis on the interesting multi-colored gold pieces and that we’ve recently acquired:

I love how this 14k yellow gold piece uses gold instead of stones as embellishment.

Victorian Bead & Drop Festoon Necklace

O.m.g. – the leaves of this ring are 14k green gold, and the flower is 14k rose gold!

Diamond Rose and Green Gold Band

The links of this bracelet alternate between 14k white and 14k yellow gold.

Retro Geometric Link Bracelet

Although this bracelet looks chunky, the 18k yellow gold embossed links are hollow, as was common during the Victorian era.

Embossed Link Bracelet

Ok, this necklace isn’t all gold, a part of the chain is made in platinum, but the rest is fashioned in warm 14k rose gold.

Engraved Perfume Flask

For those looking for something a bit different in their wedding band, a 22k vintage band (this one is vintage Tiffany & Co.!) will stand out from the 14k crowd.

3mm Comfort Fit Band

For tips on how to clean your gold piece, go here and here.

There’s always tons of excitement in July – the long weekend of the 4th, music festivals, outdoor activities, beach excursions and long summer nights.

So, in the jewelry world, it’s only fitting that the stone of the month is the fiery ruby.

Among natural gems, only diamond is harder, one reason for the ruby’s popularity in a variety of jewelry styles.

In Victorian jewelry, rubies were set in the heads of snake rings; in Art Nouveau pieces, which are often nature-inspired, they were set to resemble the petals of flowers; and you’ll see rubies often in Retro jewelry, boldly set in yellow or rose gold

Below, a look back in time to where  (and how!) the ruby was worn:

Victorian Era

It’s widely circulated that Queen Victoria’s wedding band was a snake biting its own tail. Whether or not this factoid is true, we  may never know, but what I do know for sure is that there are tons of snake rings to be found (in a variety of styles) from the Victorian era.

They are often set with precious stones in their eyes or on top of their heads, and this particular one is set with a ruby, as well as a diamond and a sapphire.

Ruby, Diamond and Sapphire Snake Ring

There was a period of time during the Victorian era when jewelers were fixated on the design techniques of the Etruscans (ancient Romans). This 18k yellow gold necklace showcases both this design inspiration and beautiful old cut bezel set rubies.

Etruscan Revival Emerald & Ruby Necklace

Art Nouveau Era

Art Nouveau jewels are rife with organic shapes and motifs. A bright ruby (the color of flowers, fruits and other natural delicacies), only enhances this naturalistic beauty,  as seen with these two curvaceous Art Nouveau pieces.

Art Nouveau Enameled Lady Festoon Ruby & Diamond Necklace

Ruby & Diamond Art Nouveau Necklace

Retro Era

Due to the dearth of platinum and other jewelry materials during the Retro era (which spans World War II, from 1940 to 1950), jewelers used alternative metals  such as yellow and rose gold, and alternative stones such as citrines,  amethysts and, of course, rubies.

Their lack was our gain, because ruby jewelry from this era is always some of the boldest.

Retro Ruby Wire Frame Earrings

Diamond and Ruby Retro Flower Ring

Contemporary

With the Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle line, we take inspiration from the motifs and designs of some of our most favorite antique pieces and fashion them anew. A great example are these serpent earrings, accented with ruby drops.

Ruby Drop Serpent Earrings

With all these great examples, it should be easy (or very, very hard if you are indecisive like me!) to add a ruby jewel to your collection.

]]> http://www.doyledoyle.com/stylegem/?feed=rss2&p=461 0 http://www.doyledoyle.com/stylegem/?p=445 http://www.doyledoyle.com/stylegem/?p=445#comments Thu, 04 Jun 2009 15:13:00 +0000 Lauren http://www.doyledoyle.com/stylegem/?p=445

Paris in the springtime may have a song, but New York City at this time of year is really where it’s at.

It helps that the city, with all its boroughs, is one of the greenest urban areas in the United States. New Yorkers have landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux to thank for two of its verdant parks – Central Park in Manhattan, and Brooklyn’s Prospect Park, and warmer weather means more time frolicking in these parks, enjoying the simple pleasures of spring and summer

I’m way more interested in baking pies and laying on picnic blankets than deciding what to wear on a beautiful day, but I can never go completely unadorned. That’s why I rely on my simple jewelry staples of an everyday pendant, a small ring and delicate earrings during days spent outdoors.

Here are a few of my recommendations for your carefree jewelry wardrobe:

Pendant Necklaces: I’ve started wearing a simple stone pendant necklace lately, taking it off only when I go to sleep, or when I step into the shower.

I like the lozenge shape of the amethyst in this necklace, and the flowy gold Nouveau border really makes this piece stand out.

Art Nouveau Amethyst Pendant, $425

We just added this charming Diamond Pair of Owls Necklace to our Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle line, and it already has a lot of fans. Besides being completely cute, this pendant also holds meaning – owls symbolize truth and wisdom.

Diamond Pair of Owls Necklace, $575

Flies are an ancient symbol of protection and this Diamond Set Fly Necklace is one of my favorite pieces from the Heirloom by Doyle & Doyle line.

Diamond Set Fly Necklace, $350

Small Rings: Although I have more than a few cocktail rings or larger statement rings that I bring out for special occasions, during the warmer months, I like the delicacy and ease of a small, everyday ring.

Even though this clover isn’t four-leafed, it can still bring a little bit of luck into your life. The use of three precious stones makes it especially charming.

Ruby, Sapphire and Diamond Clover Ring, $950

I like that the shape of this Victorian ring has a slightly masculine edge to it, but that the smaller size if the ring keeps the look feminine.

Pink Sapphire Embossed Ring, $1200

This old mine cut diamond gives this solitaire ring some edge; the fineness (22k) of the gold, makes it especially bright, both in color and in beauty.

Old Mine Cut Diamond Solitaire Ring , $750

Yes, another clover ring, but this one is in a navette shape and fashioned in rose gold!

Single and Rose Cut Diamond Clover Ring, $195

Delicate Earrings: I like the subtlety of a smaller pair of earrings, and they hardly ever get caught in your hair.

The small diamond drop earrings are a great alternative to a pair of diamond studs.

Round Brilliant Cut Diamond Drop Earrings, $225

Studs are always a great choice as an everyday piece, and although these yellow gold Fleur de Lis Studs are small, the detail of the design makes them stand out. Plus, they are also an everyday piece in my personal jewelry wardrobe!

Fleur de Lis Studs, $85

I’m partial to purple, but if I were you, I would get a few pairs of semi-precious stone studs and alternate which color I wear depending on my mood.

Amethyst Stud Earrings, $175

We’re ecstatic that she picked us as her go-to engagement ring spot, and even more excited that Time Out caught her at such an amazing moment!

Check her out here.

Your diamond ring can be cleaned with a simple soak in warm water and a drop of mild dish soap. It only takes a few minutes:

First, soak your ring in water diluted with mild dish soap .

Next, gently scrub the piece, making sure to get underneath prongs and the stone, usuing a soft bristle brush (maybe an old toothbrush)

Lastly, rinse under warm water and gently dry.

One last note, when you are cleaning jewelry with set stones, often dirt or other residues can be holding the stone in place, so always be sure to clean and rinse the piece with something underneath it, and not over an open drain.

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