There is no denying that we at Doyle & Doyle are inordinately enthusiastic about jewelry. Of course we foremost love jewelry because it is pretty, but it is the pieces that bear contextual significance that really get us going! Unless you inspect, feel, magnify, compare, and research jewelry all day long, the importance of a really special jewel isn’t always obvious. My new blog segment, “Why We Love It” will take a closer look at some of our most unusual pieces and detail what it is that makes us swoon!

This locket is one of those pieces that has captivated us since it first came to the store, and the wonder has yet to cease! It is what the Germans might call a Gesamtkunstwerk, or “total work of art”. The piece is made of 18 karat gold, platinum, diamonds, glass, ivory, and watercolor paint. It dates to the early 1900s and  is quite impressive  in scale– about 2 ½ inches long. The front is decorated with guilloche enamel. Guilloche refers to a type of machine engraving that was especially popular in jewelry of early 20th century. Engine turning machines create intricate repeating patterns that precisely engrave the metal, similar in function to a spirograph toy. The incised metal was then covered with a layer of transparent enamel, resulting in a subtle three-dimensionality captured beneath the glossy surface.

Enamel is finely ground glass that is fused to a metal base by kiln firing.  Noxious substances, such as mercury and lead, were used in antique enamels that resulted in beautifully saturated, but delicate hues. These amazing colors in enamel jewelry of yore are unparalleled by modern (albeit non-toxic) formulas. The bail is also covered in a blanket of purple, and is in pristine condition. A thin stripe of white enamel circumscribes the locket and really makes the platinum and diamond medallion in the center pop!  The medallion is exemplary of the Edwardian style popular in the early 1900s: all white and very lacy.

However much I love the front of this awesome locket, my favorite part is when you flip it over. The entire back side showcases a hand painted miniature portrait of a very dapper gentlemen (whose name I ponder often) framed under glass. Before photography, one had to rely on the skilled hand of an artist to capture the likeness of a loved one, and only the wealthy could afford such a service. Before 1700, miniatures were painted with watercolors on vellum, a fine animal skin. Between 1700 and 1900, the canvas of choice was a thin sheet of ivory. It is special that this locket contains a painting; photography had been around for over fifty years and painted portraits were quickly phasing out.

The watercolor on ivory portrait in this locket is masterfully executed. When viewed under magnification, you can see the individual hairs of our monsieur’s eyebrows– it is exquisite! The major drawback to watercolor paint is its proclivity to fade over a short period of time. This painting is incredibly vivid considering its age.

This locket is beautiful. There is no denying that! But what makes it so much more exciting is the combination of multiple media, expert craftsmanship, and historical techniques on top of excellent condition!

Tags: Edwardian, enamel, guilloche, Locket, painted portrait, portrait miniature, purple.

Amethyst, Pearl & Onyx Locket, $1200 094370N

Onyx is a black type of chalcedony quartz, a mineral that has long been fashioned into jewelry by polishing it into cabochons and beads. The glossy and smooth finish of black onyx provides an ideal canvas to showcase bright gemstone and metal plaques– the colors and details exhibit wonderfully!

Victorian Whitby Jet Earrings, $650, 095719E

Jet is a unique type of fossilized driftwood– naturally black in color, very light in weight, and either matte or polished in finish. Jet has been used in personal adornments since prehistoric times. During the Middle Ages, it was believed that a jet cross was an antidote to witchcraft.Jet experienced its peak in popularity during Victorian times: it was the only acceptable material to be worn as jewelry during full mourning. Rich deposits of this material exist near Whitby, England where factories that produced the jewelry thrived. The most common forms fashioned from jet were chunky chains, geometric earrings, long strands of beads, and medallions with intricate carvings.

Victorian Diamond Cluster Ring, $2100, 094320R

Enamel is finely ground glass powder fused to a metal base. Black enamel on a gold background was especially popular at the end of the 19th century. Intricate designs were carved into the metal and enamel filled the crevices, creating fine patterns and a dramatic contrast between the deep black and rich gold.

Click here to see more black beauties!

Tags: black jewelry, enamel, jet, Locket, mourning, onyx, Ring, victorian, Victorian jewelry, Victorian necklace.